Supporting strands

Monica Shah and Karishma Swali — embroiderers to one of the vital largest couture companies on this planet, and fashion designers in their very own proper — take us around their new pastime undertaking, a girls-only embroidery faculty

HISTORICALLY, Girangaon is where Mumbai found its glory. The city’s textile hub is what had made the city, then cherished as Bombay, a global port. The cloth produced here was once exported to the UK, and then to the remainder of the world, making India the largest exporter of cotton globally.

Today, two ladies are making Girangaon — as Parel, Byculla, Dadar, Lalbaug are collectively known — the world over well-known again.

Monica Shah and Karishma Swali, who run the relatively successful embroidery house Chanakya, which they inherited from Karishma’s father and Monica’s sweetheart's father Vinod Shah, are the executive embroiderers for several international labels like Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Giambattista Valli, Valentino and others. Like many other embroiderers and exporters, they're housed in Byculla.

Their bold repertoire had renowned international fashion critic Suzy Menkes talk over with them in 2017, and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the executive clothier of Dior (she has been working with Chanakya for over two decades, since her days as Fendi’s accessories head) attend their tenth anniversary in October 2018.

The women rely Chiuri, whose feminist bent at Dior has been iconoclastic, as their mentor. It was once on Chiuri’s recommendation that they determined to ensure artisanal Indian embroideries proceed for coming generations.

This altruism birthed The Chanakya School of Embroidery & Fine Crafts. Also in Byculla, the school is lower than six months previous and invites ladies from lesser privileged properties to be informed basic and sophisticated embroidery tactics over the two three-month classes. The faculty runs in a relatively modernist house — a large airconditioned white shed that resembles an enormous art gallery, replete with clothier foldable chairs, swanky embroidery-ring genre desks and an AV room.

“Embroidery is traditionally a maledominated box. But fewer males need to do this paintings now, despite it being a generational talent,” Monica says. “We wanted to bring ladies to the team of workers, and thus also empower them,” Karishma adds.

There are 100 ladies who come here day-to-day. They are each paid Rs 2,500 monthly to cover their conveyance. Even if they arrive here to flee Mumbai’s brutal summer, and to gather a bit of pocket money, they go house learning one thing new, and stay coming again for extra.

One of the students says she desires to open her own fashion boutique; some other desires to be a manner clothier. Their dreams don’t appear impossible, as they be told couture-style embroideries and surface tactics; even the au courant three-d embroidery.

As the ladies show me around, the classes are underway. Monica and Karishma are greeted with grateful smiles. But courtesies are transient as the students resume their paintings almost immediately. The fineness of their handiwork is surprisingly excellent.

“The teachers are professionals from local fashion institutes like Nirmala Niketan. For the advanced path, our own grasp craftsmen take over,” Karishma says. The ladies are given an in-depth understanding of the art, with monthly museum visits and orientation in historical past. The find out about modules also deal with the usage of era, marketing strategies and industry acumen. The programmes at The Chanakya are certified by the National Institute of Fashion Technology as well as the Export Council of Handicrafts.

Once the nine-month to one-year programme is over, the women are given a option to both look for employment, or turn marketers. They are also presented a month-long internship on the women’ embroidery company.

Monica and Karishma appear satisfied with their pastime undertaking: their two-fold goal of empowering ladies and rejuvenating thread arts has met. The ladies didn’t reveal the economics of the school, how much it cost to construct it or their monthly expenses, announcing they would favor to not say.

The faculty is nestled proper subsequent to the Bhau Daji Lad Museum, a Byculla landmark, and in addition Mumbai’s museum of textile arts and gown historical past. It’s almost as if the opportune location also lends itself to the arts facility. The students have already visited a textile show, ‘Connecting Threads: Textiles in Contemporary Practice’, on the museum. They were shown around by the creativity trainer, commercial artist Radhika Chopra, as well as the museum’s guides.


Monica and Karishma hail from privileged backgrounds and feel they're fortunate so that you can do this type of social entrepreneurship. Their embroidery house already does a bit of little bit of CSR by participating with NGOs, like Shrujan in the Kutch. But The Chanakya School is actually a fullfledged dedication.

By 2020, they hope to have 1,000 students in their fold. As Monica sums it up, “We need to create leaders.”


Embroidery is traditionally a male-dominated box. But we would have liked to bring ladies to the team of workers, and thus also empower them

–Monica Shah

Supporting strands Supporting strands Reviewed by Kailash on May 27, 2019 Rating: 5
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